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KNOT LEARNING RESOURCES
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PUBLIC
NOTICE
Most of the content on this web site has been locked down with new
passwords and copy protection to prevent theft of intellectual property.
Individuals who intend to use PACI materials for their own personal use
(for self-development and personal knowledge) may freely download content.
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from PACI content will need to pay a fee.
Students enrolled on a PACI course should complete
the knots exam in electronic format (not printed hard copy).
Any access of a commercial or business
nature requires a public
application form to be completed and sent to PACI.
Content is still free (no
$ charge). If you intend to profit from PACI intellectual property (eg because you are running a climbing school or
providing industrial height safety training, etc)
- you must seek formal written permission from PACI. Fees will apply.
All content is copyright and subject to intellectual
property laws. You must apply for permission to use PACI intellectual
property if it is for purposes other than personal use. If the password is
given on this website - it may be used for personal use only. Permission to
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Permission for commercial and/or business enterprise is
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Download
and complete a public application form.
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author(s) of the paper. Again, merely because the content can be downloaded
free-of-charge, does not mean that it is stripped of copyright.
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CONTENT
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VER
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DESCRIPTION
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SIZE
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STUDY GUIDE
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1
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Knots
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5.9 01 OCT
2024
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UPDATED AND FULLY REVISED!
COMPREHENSIVE KNOT STUDY GUIDE
Comprehensive compilation of knots used in life critical
applications (eg climbing, rescue, etc) - includes test data and tying methods. Essential
reading for Guides, Instructors, and roping technicians.
Researched and authored by Mark Gommers.
Legal notice: No written content can replace
competent instruction from an experienced instructor.
Password = copyright
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19 MB
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2
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PACI
protocols
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4.8a 01 OCT 2024
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COMPREHENSIVE LEARNING RESOURCE
These protocols underpin every aspect of fall protection
used in outdoor recreation, industrial roping and public safety (vertical
rescue). Instructors will find this to be a valuable resource.
Contains significant information about knots.
NOTE: Commercial
use or any use that generates a profit from using this document is
forbidden unless permission has been obtained. Licencing fees apply.
Password = copyright
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60.2 MB
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EXAM PAPER
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3
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Knot
exam
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2.3 01 Aug 2024
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Mandatory exam paper for all
courses that use hand tied knots within fall protection systems at height.
Test your
knowledge on knots used in life critical applications. This exam paper gets
updated routinely. If you are enrolled on a PACI course, it is mandatory
that you attempt to complete this exam before commencement of training.
Password = copyright (if required)
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4.36 MB
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TECHNICAL
PAPERS
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4
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Bowline
analysis
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3.0 14 Jan 2021
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THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE ON BOWLINES
Comprehensive compilation of Bowlines with detailed
explanations and supporting theory. Detractors of 'Bowlines' may wish to
reconsider their opinions after reading this paper. Authored by Mark
Gommers.
Password = copyright
No written content can replace competent instruction
from an experienced instructor.
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8.05 MB
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5
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Offset
rope joining knots
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1.7 14 Dec 2019
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Comprehensive
technical paper on Offset end-to-end joining knots. The infamous 'EDK' is
covered in detail - and many myths are busted. Essential reading if you are
a climber or an instructor.
Password = copyright
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8.46 MB
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6
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Knot
Bio Zeppelin
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1.3c 01 July
2021
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Definitive technical
paper on the Zeppelin bend. It contains high quality images and technical
details. Essential reading for knotting connoisseurs and those who want to
expand their knowledge.
Password = copyright
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5.74 MB
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7
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Knot
Bio Riggers bend
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1.4f 25 May 2020
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Definitive
technical paper on the Riggers bend (aka Hunters bend).
Explores the
history and geometry of #1425A Riggers bend.
Password = copyright
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4.46 MB
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8
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Knot Bio Butterfly knot
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Under development
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9
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Robert
Chisnall paper on side bends
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2020
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Robert Chisnall paper on offset rope joining knots.
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1.13 MB
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10
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Robert
Chisnall paper on harness tie in knots
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2021
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Robert Chisnall paper on harness tie-in knots.
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1.23 MB
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11
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Robert
Chisnall paper on criminal use of ligatures
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2020
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Robert Chisnall paper on distinguishing between knots and
ligatures used in homicides and suicides.
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2.8 MB
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12
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Robert
Chisnall paper on knot forensics
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2016
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Robert Chisnall paper on associating innate habits with sophisticated
knot tying tasks.
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2.78 MB
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13
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Hjalmar
Ohrvall on knots
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2008
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An excellent
paper authored by Pieter van de Griend - one of the best I have read.
Pieter presents
research on the knot discoveries and work by Swedish physiologist Hjalmar Ohrvall (1851-1929).
A must read by
knotting enthusiasts and researchers.
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3.36 MB
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14
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Knot
efficiencies
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Sep 2020
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Technical paper
on Commonly used loop knots efficiencies.
Authors: Jan
Simon; Vladimir Dekys; P Palcek.
The term 'efficiency'
(in this paper) is defined as the MBS yield point of a knot relative to the
rope without a knot. This is the default mindset of efficiency - which
could be better defined in terms of; the amount of rope material to form
the knot, the footprint (volume) of the knot; resistance to jamming; range
of loading profiles; security and stability under load; relative ease of
tying (against a defined reference frame).
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2.76 MB
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15
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Topological
mechanics of knots
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2020
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Technical paper
on Topological mechanics of knots and tangles. Authored by: Vishal Patil; Joseph Sandt; Mathias Kolle; Jorn Dunkel.
This is one of
the more interesting papers because the research involved the use of colour
changing materials to identify mechanical properties of knots under load.
A must read for
technically minded knot enthusiasts!
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1.18 MB
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16
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Statistical
properties of knot efficiency
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2022
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A mathematical
analysis of the reduction in MBS yield of rope caused by hand tied knots -
authored by Jan Simon and Branislav Ftorek. This is a fairly heavy duty technical paper
with a lot of mathematics. Again, knot 'efficiency' is defined in terms of
the MBS of an unknotted rope compared to the same rope with a knot. It
should be characterised as the MBS yield point of a given knot
rather than 'efficiency'. There are many factors which influence the MBS
yield of a hand tied knot - the geometry and initial setting tension being
significant factors.
It is hoped
that one day, researchers will define 'efficiency' by metrics such as
resistance to jamming, security, stability, and loading profiles.
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695 KB
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17
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Knotting
terminology
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An excellent glossary
of all knotting terms authored and researched by Robert Birch. It includes
comprehensive notes drawn from historical sources and commentary on
contemporary understanding.
It is by far
the best paper on knotting terminology however, some concepts could be
improved - particularly the definition of a 'turn' in comparison to a
'loop'.
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18
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Attitudes
toward knots
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An interesting paper
authored by Dick Chisholm. It looks at the mindset of some classes of knot
users and their general attitude toward learning new knots versus
minimising to need to know only. The discussion is based around ski
patrollers and their particular needs but, the concepts and attitudes are a
good analogue for climbers.
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19
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Anti-Bowlines
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A short
overview of anti-Bowlines. Some examples are shown.
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20
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Sheet
bend
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An excellent
paper on the Sheet bend by Robert Birch. It also examines other
bends such as the Double Fishermans and Zeppelin bend.
Essential reading and many references are cited.
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21
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Hitches
(definition)
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A detailed
overview of hitches.
Examples are given
to illustrate various concepts.
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22
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Hitches
theory
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A deeper dive
into the mathematical theory of hitches.
Authored by
Matt Krauel.
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23
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Butterfly
derived eye knots
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The #1053
derived Butterfly bend and its corresponding eye knots. All bends
(end-to-end joining knots) have 4 corresponding eye knots. Some remarkable
eye knots can be derived from the Butterfly bend (and TIB eye knot).
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24
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Bends
Comparison
(Change file extension to .pdf after downloading)
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Charles Hamel knots
Main website: http://charles.hamel.free.fr/knots-and-cordages/MENU_CENTRAL.html
Paper on bends
and symmetry:
Link: http://charles.hamel.free.fr/knots-and-cordages/Investigation_6.html
NOTE: There appears to be an error with Hamel's
stated number of possible Zeppelin bend geometries (there can only be S/Z
or Z/S - not 4 different forms as Hamel posits).
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3.2 MB
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25
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Munter hitch
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UIAA 3/2000
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Analysis of belaying techniques using
a Munter hitch (Report by Carlo Zanantoni). The Munter is
also known as a Mezzo Barcaiolo (MB).
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654 KB
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26
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Preferred
knots for use in canyons
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Sep 2001
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Dave Drohan report on knots
used to join ropes (presented Sep 2001) - Bushwalkers Wilderness Rescue
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1 MB
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27
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Knot
failure
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N/A
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Technical paper examining the localised point of failure
within a knot structure (using soft spaghetti pasta). Authored by Piotr Pieranski, Sandor Kasas,
Giovanni Dietler, Jacques Dubochet,
and Andrzej Stasiak. Published 14 June 2001.
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28
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Paper
friction hitches
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Feb 2006
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A report researched and authored by Dr Ron Farmer in
relation to the use of slide & grip hitches as a 'self-belay' system.
As with many well intentioned researchers, no photos are given to
illustrate the test configuration or precise geometry of the hitches. At
the end of the report, references to measurements are given (eg 'about' 900mm circumference is indicated). In real
world usage, a slide & grip hitch may be attached to the users leg loop
of the harness (in outdoor rec contexts) or via the side D ring on
industrial harnesses. This creates an angle of incidence with respect to
the parent rope which was not reported. Related to this is the degree of
compactness of the wraps and resulting form - which impacts on the ability
of the hitch to grab to the parent rope. Furthermore, any sudden loss of
control during descent would mean a potential shock loading on the hitch.
Additionally, cordage from each rope manufacturer has different stiffness
and sheath texture characteristics. Some cords are 'slick' while others
have a more coarse texture (eg Sterling USA
accessory cords). This sheath texture has significant impact on the
performance of slide & grip hitches. Also, it appears that testing was
of the slow pull (static) type and not dynamic (ie
shock loading).
In the opinion of PACI, the results obtained would be difficult to
reproduce by another tester. This is not an isolated problem - it is a
recurrent theme amongst all testers in the outdoor recreation industry.
PACI regards this report as a starting point for future testers.
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29
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Arboriculture
Article Prusiks
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The geneology of Prusik hitches - an expanded article which originally
appeared in the Society of Commercial Arboriculture in an Oct 2004 issue of
Arborist News. By Mark Adams
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30
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Report_Hitches_PBavaresco
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March 2002
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Friction hitches used in tree climbing in the UK.
Contract for the report was awarded to 'Treevolution'.
(Report authored by Paolo Bavaresco).
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1.09 MB
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31
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Nylon
Hwy No. 34
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June 1991
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Article on Prusik hitches in
the 'Nylon Hwy' No. 34
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32
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Report
Knots Sailing
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27/07/2006
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Report by K.A. Milne and A.J. McLaren - Dept of Mechanical Engineering, University of
Strathclyde Glasgow UK
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1.3 MB
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33
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Knot
topology
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Video
An excellent video presented by professor Carlo Sequin
from the university of California USA. He presents an outline of the
mathematical theory of knot topology in an easy to understand overview.
Topology is a complex area of mathematics which examines knot structures
based on the number of crossing points within a closed system (ie knots with no ends). A classic example of such a
structure is the 'trefoil'.
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34
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Elastic
knot response
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Aug 2015
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Technical paper on the mechanics and topology in the
frictional response of overhand elastic knots.
Authored by Jawed, Dieleman, Audoly, and Reis and published 06 August 2015.
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HISTORICAL
CONTENT
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35
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Rope
and its uses
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April, 1917
(originally published 1914)
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A rare and historic book authored by AA Burger in 1917. This
book was digitised by Google Books and made available in the public domain
(copyright expired or non-existent). It contains a reference to the
Butterfly knot which the author refers to as a "Lineman's rider"
(see p23). This book pre-dates the classic Wright and Magowan report in
1928 where the term 'Butterfly knot' was used. Burger states; "Linemen
and especially telephone men often use a knot which they term the lineman's
rider." at p22)
It is possible to speculate that the Butterfly knot was developed
independently by Wright and Magowan and perhaps without knowledge of its
existence and use by linesmen in the telegraph industry.
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1188 KB
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36
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Knots
for Mountaineering
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An important book authored by Phil D Smith and published
in 1953. Contents include the original 'Riggers Bend' and Butterfly Bend
(corresponds to Butterfly knot).
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1.7 MB
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37
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Dr Karl Prusik
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Historic
original content from Dr Kark
Prusik published in 1931.
It's in the
German language - needs translation to English.
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38
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Russian
knot book
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This
masterpiece authored by Lev Skryagin is the
Russian 'equivalent' of the Ashley Book of Knots (ABoK).
It's all in Russian but, the images can be understood by anyone!
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2.2 MB
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39
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Report_Wright-Magowan
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1928
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A rare and historic 1928 British report that defines the
state-of-art in knotting in that era. Authored by C.E.I. Wright and J.E.
Magowan. This is where the name 'Butterfly knot' was introduced.
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3.6 MB
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40
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The
Book of Knots
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Rare and
historic book published under the alias of 'Tom Bowling' in 1890.
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1.7 MB
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41
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Notes
of Knots Vol 1 part1
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Original hand written
journal on knots from Henry Bushby in 1902 (not
published).
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20.2 MB
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42
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Notes
on Knots Vol 1 part 2
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Original hand written
journal on knots from Henry Bushby in 1902 (not
published).
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19.8 MB
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43
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The
use of rope on the farm
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Historic book
authored by Virgil Overholt Dec 1922.
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10.9 MB
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44
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Knots
splices and rope work
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Jan 1917
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Historic book
authored by A. Hyatt Verrill in 1917
(second edition)
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KNOT TEST
REPORTS
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45
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Euro
Death Knot EDK tests
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1999
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Tom Moyer (USA) report on the so-called Euro Death Knot 1999.
Now over 20 years old, it seems to persist despite
glaring omissions in the tests.
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46
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Knot
tests
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N/A
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Test report on comparative knot % strengths - no date
given
Report authored by Dave Richards from the Cordage Institute in USA
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100 KB
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47
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Knot
strength tests
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2016
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Thomas Evans report on knot strength
Presented at 2016 ITRS symposium
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800 KB
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48
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Bowline
tests
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ITRS test report authored by Kelly Byrne on a selected group
of 'Bowlines'.
This paper is interesting from the point of view that #1074 Bowline with-a-bight was tested.
This Bowline is of interest because it has 4 rope diameters inside the
nipping loop compared to the 'Yosemite Bowline' which only has 2.
More work needs to be done in this area... it is still an open question if
the number of rope diameters inside the nipping loop boosts the knots MBS
yield.
The high MBS yield reported with the Triple Bowline is a result of doubled
rope segments sharing load. This is analogous to forming a round sling -
where the MBS yield is double that of a single strand segment.
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49
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Prusik hitch tests (1)
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A paper on load
test results based on 2 different tying methods of a Prusik
hitch.
Authored by
Warwick Marlin, Dagmar Muhlbauer, Travis Trower.
As is typical of many knot test reports, there are no photos showing
precisely how the knots were tied and tested.
PACI Note: There are 2 legs of a Prusik
hitch, and the leg with the Double fishermans joining knot will s-t-r-e-t-c-h as the knot
compresses. This stretch will cause load to bias to the opposite leg.
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50
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Prusik hitch tests (2)
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2016
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Thomas Evans report on Prusik
hitch failure modes
Presented at 2016 ITRS symposium.
PACI note: This time we have detailed photos in the
report.
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432 KB
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51
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Knot
test Sterling USA
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2019 ?
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This test was performed by Jim Ewing from Sterling ropes
(USA) to determine the effect of adding a simple overhand knot between
the two strangles of a double fishermans bend.
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52
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Tests-knots-ascenders
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14 Aug 2004
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August 2004 tests conducted by NSW SES on selected knots
and J style ascenders - report authored by Alan Sheehan (Oberon SES)
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1.83 MB
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53
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Tests-friction-hitches
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29 July 2004
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Friction hitch (ie Prusiks etc) tests conducted
by NSW SES - report authored by Alan Sheehan (Oberon SES)
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1.17 MB
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54
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Tests_Lyon_Friction-hitches
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364/2001
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Friction hitch tests conducted in England (part of a
study of Industrial Rope Access systems). Report No.364/2001 prepared by
Lyon Equipment Limited.
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340 KB
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55
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Tests
Girth Hitched Slings
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2002
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Tests on slings girth hitched through wired stoppers.
Report is from Tom Jones but copyright is held by Nolan Jones (C) Copyright
2002. The conclusion is (not surprisingly) that girth hitching a sling through
a wire loop reduces its strength considerably. It should be noted that doggers and riggers have long understood this problem
with 'choked' lifting slings.
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56
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Report_MGibbs_2005
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Nov 2005
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Commercial lanyard shock load testing and comparison to
Purcell systems (report by Mike Gibbs 2005) - presented to the
International Technical Rescue Symposium USA
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936 KB
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57
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Report_MGibbs_2006
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Nov 2006
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Detailed examination and testing of Purcell prusiks (report by Mike Gibbs 2006) - presented to the
International Technical Rescue Symposium USA
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144 KB
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58
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Test
report fixed eye knots
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Mar 2006
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Test report authored by Katy Milne and Andrew McLaren published
March 2006 (University of Strathclyde, Glasgow UK). Its principal focus is
knots used as fixed eyes in sailing environments. However, the information
is still applicable and of relevance regardless of context.
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59
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Butterfly
knot test
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2015
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Andy Schmitz test report.
Butterfly knots were 'eye loaded' (not through loaded).
The object of the test regime was to determine if the direction in which
the eye is loaded affects the MBS. No statistically significant difference
could be determined.
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7.75 MB
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